Saturday, July 18, 2026

Getting Pushy - New WW2 Land Combat Rules From 4P Press

Hello friends:

I'll start with a disclaimer that what follows attempts to be an objective review of new WW2 rules, though the rules are also written by a dear friend of mine, so take what follows with however many grains of salt you require.  

If you ever explored Wargames Vault (WV), you know that there is a vast universe of resources there - rules, scenario books, STL files, paper models, anything that can be sold and delivered via download.  I suppose that most things offered on WV are like those self-published e-books that people sell through websites like Amazon.  And I suppose that many wargamers have the itch to write their own rules because aren't we are all sometimes dissatisfied with aspects of published rules for our favourite periods and we feel that our ideas are truer to how we imagine, say, a hoplite battle unfolding.   I've never tried to write and sell my own rules, but I know people who have and I respect them.

I've read that a few people get rich selling their own e-books online, but I don't think anyone's gotten rich off WV.  However, it is a niche market and a source of revenue for some.   4P Press is one of the most prolific WV publishers that I'm aware of, and the genius behind it is Patricia Phillips, who describes herself as "an autistic history fanatic".  I know her well enough to say that this self-description is only partially tongue in cheek.   Patricia's knowledge and interests are vast and her pen (well, keyboard) is seldom still.   4P's rule offerings on WV are many - WW1 flying, early 20th century race car driving, ironclad naval combat - and she also has a goodly number of STL files done with the help of her talented friend Chris Ferree.  Patricia would be the first to say that 4P is a labor of love and not a business, but I don't think she minds whatever sales come her way.

When Patricia offered me the chance to look at Push; A Game of Ground Combat 1930-45, her new WW2 rules (though as the title says they do work for the interwar period as well), I was curious and thought it was a chance to break out my neglected collection of 15mm toys.  The rules offer an interesting take on morale (called Stance) which is as important as firepower.  As the introduction states, "The philosophy behind Push is that combat comes down to two things: the side that pushes forward and the other side's efforts to push back".   This philosophy is behind the fire mechanics, of which I'll say a bit shortly.

Push is a company level game, so an infantry company will have three stands of infantry, an HQ stand, and maybe support weapons.  Troops have the usual ratings (Elite, Veteran, Trained, Poor) but these only matter for morale tests.   The most important thing about your troops in battle is their Stance (or combat effectiveness), which ranges from Pressing (gung-ho), to Steady, to Cautious, to Pinned, to Broken.   A stand that is Steady has a better chance of working under fire, moves faster, and shoots better than a stand that is Cautious or Pinned.

I'll try to explain these and other concepts as I walk through a little game that I set up to test drive the rules.   

Here two Canadian companies are attacking a village at a crossroads.  Each company has an attached 2 inch mortar section, and one has an attached HMG section.  The Canadians get a divisional (medium) artillery barrage once at the start of the game.  The German company has a light mortar and an MG42 section in support.


Canadian attackers.


German defenders.

Combat in Push is an expression of what the rules call Pressure (attack) against Resistance (defence).   If the Pressure dice exceeds the Resistance score, then the target decreases its stance.  For Indirect Fire (artillery and such), as well as Reaction (basically Opportunity Fire) only the attacker gets to throw Pressure dice and see if the score for each dice is greater than the target's Resistance (determined by it's stance) modified by cover.  In this case, the medium artillery get 4 Pressure dice against each stand or base within a 4" barrage area.  The German defenders in the initial barrage are all Steady so their resistance is a four, increased by +1 if dug in or +2 if in hard cover (the ruined village buildings).   



Initial barrage results.  Dug in German squad on the left goes from Steady to Cautious.   Squad in hard cover on the right takes three hits (three sixes on the Pressure dice roll!) and groes from Steady to Broken.

The barrage does some damage.   Now on to the first turn and the first phase is the Command phase, when you can call in offboard artillery and, more importantly, use your Gumption tokens.  Gumption is an interesting and important idea in Push.  Each side gets one token per company (maybe more depending on circumstances).   A Gumption token allows you to do various things, like automatically rally a stand and improve it's stance, combine the fire of two stands, and motivate one stand to do something heroic (the game calls this stance Pressing or Carrying the Push).  More about that below.

The next phase is Movement  which is done on an IGOUGO basis, one side moving all their units, and then the other moving.   Units that move in LOS of an enemy unit can be fired on at the time of moving  (same principle as described above, Pressure dice vs Resistance rating).   My Canadians advance and take some fire, one stand going Cautious (red token).     Units that use Reaction Fire can move in their turn, but can't participate in Combat unless it's a close assault so, if you want to shoot and you're on the defence, you have to decide, do I use Reaction Fire or wait until the Combat phase when all the enemy's moves are complete?

The Combat phase combines shooting and hand to hand assaults.  If a moving unit contacts an enemy stand, then assault is immediate.  Otherwise, all shooting that has not happened as Reaction Fire happens now.  Here's an interesting thing about how Push imagines combat - it's often simultaneous.  Both units fire or melee at the same time.  Both roll their Pressure Dice vs the enemy's Resistance rating and vice versa.  Whichever side rolls more dice that equal or exceeds the other's Resistance rating than the other successfully pushes the other's Stance down one or more levels.   

Here's an example.  A Canadian stand and the German MG unit engage in combat.  The MG gets 4 pressure dice, the Canadians three because they moved half or less of their movement of 6" in the open.  The Canadians' Resistance is a 4 because their Stance is Steady and they are in the open.  The German's Resistance is 5: Steady Stance and +1 for being dug in.  The Germans roll only one dice (4) that equals or exceeds the Canadian stance, and the Canadians only roll one dice (a 5) that equals or exceeds the German stance.   The result is a tie and neither side goes down a Stance level.   Push's idea of fire combat may seem counterintuitive, as in most systems A fires at B (eg, Prep Fire in Squad Leader) and sees if it can damage B.  With Push, I imagine simultaneous exchanges of fire so in this case, the Canucks went to ground when the MG opened up and returned fire with rifles and Brens, lots of shooting, no result.   It might have gone badly for the Canucks in the open but they were lucky.


The example discussed above - a good illustration of how the Combat Phase in Push can be mutual.  The black dice are the German Pressure rolls, the red dice are the Canadian Pressure rolls.

One of the things I like about Push is that there is no casualty removal.   Everything depends on Stance and if a unit goes to Broken, it just runs away or surrenders.

Fast forward to the last few turns I had to play and a good example of the Gumption mechanic.   As my attackers get closer, I decide to use a Gumption token to give raise one stand to Pressing.   Only a Gumption token can do this and it can only be given to a Steady stand.  It gives the stand an extra pressure dice and increases its resistance to five.  Perhaps the lieutenant gave an inspiring speech or these joes just have their blood up.   

In Push there is a subset of the Movement Phase called the Initiative Phase.  This allows one stand the benefit of surprise or extreme heroism.  It can't be targetted by Reaction fire and if it engages in Combat (fire or assault) it gets its licks in first and the defender does not roll its Pressure dice in response.    A player can spend a Gumption token to give +1 to an intiative roll if the HQ of the stand that might benefit from the initiative is touching another stand of the company and within 6".  In this case, I used my second Gumption token to give the Canadians a +1 on the Initiative Roll.   Canucks win the roll, and so my Pressing stand gets the Initiative.  It runs around the corner of the stone wall and is in among the German foxholes with grenades and bayonets.  It gets an extra Pressure dice, so four dice, gets lucky rolls, and shellacks the Germans with three hits, driving them from Steady to Broken.   Kamerad!


An example of using Gumption to influence events.  The two Union Jack tokens allow the Canadian stand top centre to be Pressing and to win the intiative, thus flanking and inflicting a buttload of hurt on the German stand.  The tokens are I think from Litko.

So that was enough to give me a taste of the rules and I will definitely try them again.   One thing I haven't mentioned or yet explored is that there are also rules in Push for armour and air support, minefields, and some suggestions for solo play.    Push also comes with enough data on troops and equipment for enough nationalities to satisfy hardcore gamers.   One of Patricia's super powers is research and copious data set compilation.

Push is a first edition, so there are a few details that were unclear to me, but I got prompt answers when I asked the author.  Patricia is on Bluesky (4ppress.bsky.social) and is planning a website for questions, FAQs, and discussions on her rules.  Push offers some interesting ideas for WW2 gaming, and is currently available on WV for the princely sum of $7.70USD, which is a small amount to support an indie publisher.  Do have a look.








Saturday, July 4, 2026

Fresh From The Shipyards: Escort Vessels For Torpedoes and Tides

Hello friends:

In my last post, "Convoy Chaos", I had some photos of some shamefully underpainted German vessels and even black primed targets (I mean, merchant ships).   Since then I've been working on getting them finished for their next encounter.

Here is the 3D printed Raumboote or R Boat.  The German term literally means "clearance boat" and they were wooden hulled, fast vessels that could serve a number of roles: minesweeping, air-sea rescue, and convoy escort.  Over 400 were produced and served in all theatres.   Later versions were upgunned and some had torpedo tubes added.

I found this model on Thingverse.  If you search for "Cruel Seas" you'll find a number of nice models from the various countries' coastal forces.   It painted up well.  I added a copper wire mast and some Skytrex crew.

This beast is a Skytrex resin and metal model M Class minelayer.   In German they were called Minensuchboot and I gather that, like the R Boats, they were versatile ships that could play a variety of roles.


The Skytrex model includes crewed weapons and I added some figures to the bridge.

The two- models side by side to give a sense of how big the M class ship is.  In 1/600 scale it’s a bit of a beast.

And another perspective shot with the Skytrex Bangor class minesweeper.


Finally here’s the latest model from the 3D printer shipyards, an armed trawler to beef up my RN escorts.   I have some spare weapons in my Skytrex bit box including a crewed 3” gun.  Again it’s a Thingverse model so not sure how accurate it is but it’s a sizeable ship and should give the E-boats pause for thought.


Cheers and blessings to your boats.
MP+






Wednesday, June 24, 2026

Convoy Chaos! A Torpedoes and Tides Battle Report

I've now played a full solitaire game of Torpedoes and Tides, using the Campaign Rules.   I used all my Fairmille models to give me a flotilla of three MTBs and two MGBs.   The lead character was Lt. "Rocky" Rhodes but he didn't do so well so another boat commander ended up being my main character.  

I gave all the dogboats Q3, so the flotilla isn't green, but it's fairly new to the war, so just barely Competent  I rolled a Convoy Attack mission. We pick up the action in front of the Senior Naval Officer.

***

Lt John Miller, RCNVR, "Dusty" to his friends, stood uneasily in front of the desk of Commander Jennings, referred to soto voce in the flotilla as "The Dragon".    Jennings had been a year from retirement when the war began, and although he had been a dashing torpedo boat skipper in the last war, his approach was by the book and he did not like undisciplined Canadians.

Jennings put down the after action report and pointed his pipe stem at Miller.  "Well, you did well, at least, but it was a damned poor show all around."

Miller, still short of sleep, struggled to recall the events of last night.   The convoy had been there on its reported route, and had first been spotted by Lt Harry "The Hammer" Fields in his MGB.  "It's hammering time!" Fields had shouted over the radio as his guns unleashed on a small German escort, an R-boat at close range.   


The Canadian flotilla approaches in darkness under blinds.  The white cotton depicts a fog bank.  Harry's MGB is close enough to the Raum-botte and a freighter behind it that they come off blinds.   Harry fires, but to no effect.



"I don't know what Rhodes was thinking, having you all charging in pell-mell like that.   Officer cadet heroics have no place here!" 

"We were all eager, sir, it was our first show."  Miller recalled their flotilla skipper, Peter "Rocky" Rhodes, ordering them to "get stuck in, full throttle" and Miller suddenly finding himself within spitting distance of the small escort, its tracers flying overhead and chewing up his Fairmille's woodwork.


Miller's boat takes a point of damage and is now operating on one red dice.   Because the German now has initiative, and the R-boat must move at least a short move forward before turning, it bashes into the MTB of Lt Rouleau.   Both the British and German boats take damage.

The German R-boat skipper is undergunned but gamely hangs in, happy to play bumper boats and spoil the British attack.  Meanwhile, the other MGB in the flotilla, under Bruce "Fairway" McGregor, lights up the German freighter but doesn't do any real damage.  The red chits are for the optional muzzle flash rules, meaning that a boat that fires is easier to hit.

"There's a difference between eager and stupid," Jennings growled.  "I'd say getting your boat cut in half is just plain stupid."


Rhodes is too close to the oncoming German minesweeper, the large escort.   It was a hard way to learn the collision rules, especially as the British lost the initiative at this point and the Large German ship cuts through the MTB like a knife through butter.

"Yes, sir.  I hope my report made it clear that Lt. McGregor was able to rescue Rhodes and his crew while under fire."

Miller recalled glancing at the minesweeper, her secondary armament lashing the water as McGregor's men cooly plucked their mates from the sea.

"That was a good show, McGregor showed guts.  Good sort of man to have in a gunboat."



Jennings allowed himself a flinty smile.  "And you managed to redeem this dog's breakfast of a show."

"It was hard to miss at that range, sir.   Got the last freighter amidships and she broke in two.   We were able to get out in the confusion."


Miller fires two fish at close range, if he was any closer there wouldn't have been enough time for the torpedoes to arm.  He's rewarded with one hit, which does catastrophic damage to the freighter.


Jennings sat back in his seat and relit his pipe before looking up at Miller from under his bushy eyebrows.  "The MO is looking over Rhodes and his lot.  I can't produce dog boats from thin air, so you're down a boat and I'm giving you the flotilla.  Do better than Rhodes and you might keep it.  Go get some rest, you'll need it.  Dismissed."

***

At the dockyard, the base chief engineer says he's busy and shorthanded.  I roll a 5 on 2d6, and since I have one boat with two damage (Rouleau's MTB) and two boats with 1 damage (McGregor's MGB and Miller's MTB), I decide to fix one point on Rouleau's boat and one on Miller's.   The MTB's take precedence.  

All the crews in the flotilla get an experience point for being in a battle.  McGregor's crew gets an experience point for rescuing Rhodes and his crew.   Miller's crew gets three points for sinking an enemy freighter.

Rhode's reputation is not enhanced by losing his boat and two of his MTBs not firing any fish.   Rhodes' reputation goes down by 1 and is now -1.   

I now check for an event and Miller is awakened the next day to the unwelcome news that the base is getting a surprise visit from an Admiral.   There's enough time to make and mend and clear away last night's empty gin bottles.  The flotilla makes a good showing and the Admiral is pleased with his fighting Canadians.

I now need a personality for Lt Miller so I roll up the following stats for him:

Stamina: 3; Charisma: 3; Tactics: 4

We'll see if Dusty Miller has what it takes to keep the flotilla and do better than poor Rhodes.   

A note about the ship models:

The R-boat is a 3D print of a file from Thingverse (do a search there under Cruel Seas and you'll find all manner of helpful files).  The minesweeper and the three merchant ships are from Skytrex, and may get properly painted before their next outing.

Cheers and blessings to your die rolls!

MP+






Wednesday, June 17, 2026

Painting and Assembling the Warbases Prussian Merchant's House

Hi friends:

This series of photos is mostly intended as a visual diary of a recent build of a Warbases MDF house, but might be of interest to some readers looking to make their models a little more interesting than the plain MDF.

This building is from the Warbases Napoleonic Prussia range of 28mm MDF kits, I've built several and they are nice buildings, a little large for big battles but they work well for skirmish games.  This one is the Prussian Merchant's house.  It's a two story building with a stone first floor, a timberframe second floor, and a peaked roof with gabled windows.

My first step was to paint the stones on the first floor.  I know they aren't really bricks, but I thought uniform brick red colour with offwhite mortar would work well enough, and while I've painted stone different colours of gray in their other kits, I couldn't really be bothered this time.  I guess the brick effect works well enough, even if they are oddly shaped bricks.


 The kit comes with a base that is scribed to represent paving stones, so I painted them two different shades of gray.  The outer walls are glued on and went together fairly well, with some rubber bands until the glue (I use white carpenter's glue) dries.


Inner walls in place and while it's unlikely they'll ever be seen on the table, doing them properly was quite satisfying, rather like painting the inside of the cockpit of a plastic model aircraft.   I at least know it's done.  :)   


The wooden ground floor door came out well, I used an AK wood tones paint set with some FolkArt Wrought Iron craft paint for the bars and handle.


The next step is to make the second story walls look interesting.  I wanted a stucco or plaster effect so I watered down some Wood Putty and used an old brush to layer it into the sections that are conveniently outlined on the MDF as being between the lines where the timberframe part will go.    I was careful not to get too much on the latter parts so the timberframe bits will fit neatly.   Once the wood putty was dry I painted it with a craft paint Buff colour and then a bit of a sepia wash.

Once that work is done and the doors and window frames are painted, the timberframes are glued on and clamped until dry.   While drying, the second story floor is painted using AK wood paints.  Again, I'm happy with the result, even though it won't be seen much.



The kit includes a nice little staircase up to the second floor.   The individual stairs fit into recesses in the wall and attach on the other side to the single piece staircase frame.   The railings were simple and I gave the landing some attention with the AK wood paint.   The roof was a challenge, it was just four pieces of plain MDF with the tiles etched into it.  I wanted a more three dimensional effect so found some plastic model railroad sheets in my stash, cut them to fit the roof sections, glued them on and them attached the roof.

The two dormer windows were a bit of challenge, I don't have any WIP photos of them.   Once the roof was on, there were some gaps between the sections that I filled with bits of MDF sprues.  The whole thing was then painted with craft Burnt Sienna, washed with an umber wash, and drybrushed with red paint.


The finished piece scales well with 28mm figures but does make them look almost small.   It's not a wee building!   In a large battle with many units on the table, you wouldn't want many of these structures on the table, but as I said above, they look great for skirmish actions.



I hope this post gave you some ideas on assembling and painting MDF buildings, or at least sold you on the Warbases product.  One minor complaint is that the buildings don't ship with instructions. but you can find them readily enough on the website.  

Even though working on a building like this takes time away from painting troops, the end result is worth it and it enhances the overall look of the table.  I'm happy with the final result and would certainly recommend the Warbases kits.    I might look at an STL file for another building but the painting work would be about the same.

Blessings to your brushes and craft knives.
MP+

Tuesday, June 9, 2026

A Hardworking Little Ship: Skytrex Bangor Class Minesweeper

Still in the grip of my coastal forces (perhaps costly forces would be a better term) enthusiasm and I've just finished a scruffy little ship to act as an escort to some merchants and maybe give the E-boats pause for thought.   

 


This 1/300 scale kit from the Skytrex/Warlord Cruel Seas kit comes as a resin hull with about half a dozen metal bits.


I might have overdone it with the rust effects.  I used AK rust paint, simply painting on a small dot or blob and then smearing it with an old brush or finger.   The effect makes her look like a proper tramp, though I would think if I was an admiral, I'd want my sweepers out doing the work and not lying around chipping paint.


The penant number, J260, is from a Bangor class minesweeper operated by the Royal Canadian Navy, the HMCS Goderich.  She spent her career mostly based out of Halifax, NS, as part of the Western Escort Force, so unlikely that she would have come close to an S Boat, but Goderich is a pleasant Ontario town and why not use the name.   I could have painted her in the grey and blue Western Approaches pattern used in the Atlantic, but liked a scruffy grey.


As far as I could see, there are no stats for the Bangor class ships in Torpedoes and Tides, but shouldn't be too hard to invent something.

Next in the dockyards is another Skytrex kit, a German minelayer, so wouldn't it be something if these two were to run into one another some dark night?

Cheers and blessings to your brushes,

MP+


Wednesday, June 3, 2026

First Time At Sea With Torpedoes and Tides

 It took me a while but I finally put some boats on the table and took these rules by Thomas Brandsetter for a spin, and they were a lot of fun!

I started modestly, two British Fairmile MGBs (aka "Dog Boats" going up against two Kriegsmarine E-boats or S (for Schnell) Boats in the English Channel.  It was night, but rolling for the environment gave me two fog banks, a full moon on the south edge of the table, and one section of coastline.    Here the Germans, still on blinds, spot the first of the two Dog Boats, outside of gun range (torpedoes against such small craft would be pointless so it's all gun combat).



I was using earlier war stats for the S Boats, when they aren't equipped with bow guns, so the Germans turned broadside on as the British approached.   There was much inconclusive shooting.  The gunfire mechanics basically mean both boats roll a die, with apporpriate modifiers, and the side with the higher value either inflicts suppression or damage, or successfully defends.   I had forgotten to add the Combat Value of the ships (3 in both cases) to the results of the die rolls.   In T&T all ships have Traits or characteristics, and the S Boats have the Hard to Hit Trait, which means that sixes become ones.   This trait proved handy as the Germans, who were undergunned compared to the Fairmiles, evaded damage and both sides came away unscathed.

My 3D printed Fairmilles and the Skytrex German S-boats blaze away in the darkness.  The playing mat is by Geek Villain.



Having learned the basics of the spotting, moving, and combat rules, I ran out of time.  The undergunned Kriegsmarine ships raced off into the darkness.  

Most of what I've read of these coastal forces encounters was that they were quick and often bloody, but in this case everyone gets back to base with inflated stories of glory.
 


Next time I'll add some more boats and use the later war S Boat stats to make it a fairer fight vs the Fairmiles.   I have some larger ships in the dockyards so hopefully I'll put some fish in the water.

A fun and positive introduction to an interesting set of rules.

Blessings to your die rolls!

MP+






Friday, May 29, 2026

The Great Shelf Disaster

In my last post I made a cryptic reference to "The Great Shelf Disaster" and since that got some interest, I thought I'd tell the story and then solicit your wargames disaster stories.   Maybe it will prove thereapeutic for all of us.

So when we moved in November, Joy and I had downsized and gotten rid of a lot of our CDs.   I had a nice wooden CD tower left over and thought of a great way to repurpose it as a shelf for my command stands, which, because of the flags, are a little fragile to go into boxes.   The idea was that I could just take the command stands off the little shelves and plop them on the games table.   


Unfortunately, or better, foolishly, the shelf wasn't anchored to the wall, it was just balanced, and for some reason one evening it decided to fall over.  The stands on the top shelves shelves suffered the most, the ones lower down took less damage, and all the little shelves came out and fell onto everything, making matters worse.  Gentle reader, I almost cried when I opened the door and saw the carnage.

Since February I've been going through these figures, gluing figures back onto bases, fixing flags, finding matches from my sprue collection for missing arms and hands and heads.   It was a right old mess.  Some of these figures are decades old, and quite fragile, so it hurt to see them so abused.


 
 

Besides repairing all these stands, I also took the time for a rough but effective bit of DIY to ensure that this never happens again.


February was also a rough month because I grabbed the wrong rattle can when I was spraying dullcote on these figures.


The good news is that this series of unfortunate events taught me to be patient and to be grateful for what I have.  I have a dedicated gaming room, thirty years worth of figures, and a hobby that I love, so I reminded myself of those blessings regularly as I filed, glued, and repainted.

What wargaming disasters have you experienced, and what have they taught you?

Blessings, MP+

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