tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post6622353386427134572..comments2024-03-28T14:20:37.492-07:00Comments on The Mad Padre's Wargames Page: A Tale Of Two UndercoatsMad Padrehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-65287433433841652272012-05-22T12:52:12.466-07:002012-05-22T12:52:12.466-07:00Thanks Sidney. A wise painter once told me to kee...Thanks Sidney. A wise painter once told me to keep experimenting with my painting. I think you raise an interesting point about the painter's style. I think too often we (or at least me, since I am, as I said above, highly impressionable) are swayed by whatever style is in vogue in the magazines or among the gods of the hobby. We forget that, like artists, we all have our own style. If everyone painted like Cezanne or played Bach like Gould, it would be a dull old world.Mad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-72583841952263753272012-05-22T12:49:29.386-07:002012-05-22T12:49:29.386-07:00Thank you my lord Archduke. That's a great i...Thank you my lord Archduke. That's a great idea about mixing a bit of rust into the the base colour for tank tracks, something I always struggle with. I usually end up painting tracks an unconvincingly bright metal and then totally covering it with brown to look like mud and dirt to cover up that brightness. I must try this.<br />The mix of black and silver would also work for some fantasy figures I have lurking around here somewhere.<br />Cheers,<br />MikeMad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-57140369945871120672012-05-22T12:46:17.588-07:002012-05-22T12:46:17.588-07:00Thanks, Jacksarge, I hadn't thought about how ...Thanks, Jacksarge, I hadn't thought about how black and white might be equally stark. I certainly appreciate your interest and your joining in this discussion.Mad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-27903091827917981942012-05-22T05:19:49.082-07:002012-05-22T05:19:49.082-07:00I've used all three, but I mostly white prime ...I've used all three, but I mostly white prime with a thinned out burnt umber base coat. <br />Depends on the sculpt, the effect I want and my mood.Jameshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14996350912869829140noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-84838596549709640582012-05-22T03:50:54.049-07:002012-05-22T03:50:54.049-07:00It does, however I seal all my models with Humbrol...It does, however I seal all my models with Humbrol matt varnish. Partly this is to protect them, but it 'equalises' the finish and makes it all nice and matt - especially important when I use a wide variety of paints and inks from different ranges.Colonel Scipiohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02632701529009379584noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-36553817368237567682012-05-21T10:54:38.088-07:002012-05-21T10:54:38.088-07:00Cheers, Chris. I haven't looked at the Army P...Cheers, Chris. I haven't looked at the Army Painter site, I should. I like the idea of tapering your undercoat to the dominant uniform, though that necessitates buying several different kinds of undercoat. Hmmmm.Mad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-90537326427768233542012-05-21T10:53:31.978-07:002012-05-21T10:53:31.978-07:00Many thanks for the thoughtful and helpful comment...Many thanks for the thoughtful and helpful comments, my dear Colonel. Pray what kind of ink wash to you use? I tried some Games Workshop black ink once for outlining and found it left a shiny residue that I didn't care for.Mad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-68675487621643479982012-05-21T10:52:02.335-07:002012-05-21T10:52:02.335-07:00Thanks Steve. Hopefully there is something here w...Thanks Steve. Hopefully there is something here with watching. :)Mad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-85800244385462380452012-05-21T10:51:24.362-07:002012-05-21T10:51:24.362-07:00Thank you, Tamsin, that's a very helpful set o...Thank you, Tamsin, that's a very helpful set of suggestions. I have some burnt/raw umber from a basing project so I will give that a prime, and will check out Basement Gaming.<br />Cheers,<br />MikeMad Padrehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00410143683610813671noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-70772227356011913772012-05-21T05:21:32.234-07:002012-05-21T05:21:32.234-07:00Mike
I use a black undercoat almost all the time ...Mike<br /><br />I use a black undercoat almost all the time these days. I like the depth of colour you get with it, and the way it tones down some of the colours used - almost the reverse of a white undercoat in fact. Black is more forgiving for my style of painting, especially with figures which have a great detail if inaccessible detail on them. I know you can get round this with an ink or diluted paint wash, but that for me is an extra stage because I don't tend to use washes.<br /><br />That being said, certain painting styles really suit the white undercoat - anything for which you want a bright finish with a lighter colour palette - sci-fi, dragons, perhaps landesknechts … all very colourful chaps.<br /><br />In the end, I think a lot depends on the figure casting itself, and the painter's style. Very much looking forward to seeing you try with both!Sidney Roundwoodhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14795563060856586670noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-49806493670163995352012-05-21T00:56:09.988-07:002012-05-21T00:56:09.988-07:00I'm a white undercoat guy. However, what I th...I'm a white undercoat guy. However, what I then do is outline the details in black. Very time consuming, but it has this upside: the boys already look like something interesting (Compare block painting, in which you're on to your sixth or seventh cplour before they look like anything). Painting's a breeze after that!<br /><br />For iron or steel, I have for years used a gloss black and silver mix. Not too much black, unless you are doing something like the black armour of Imperialist 30YW cuirassiers' armour. You want it to look fairly silvery. The effect when dry is of burnished iron or steel; it needs no drybrushing or highlighting. I use it for muskets, swords, bayonets, armour, even (occasionally) weathering. For AFV tracks, a little rust colour in the mix is no bad thing... The reason for my likong this method is that it doesn't look silvery from every angle, as using silver would do, but it is highly reflective and when the light hits at the right angle, the effect is - I find - impressive.<br /><br />Whenever I have used black undercoating (very rare - I think I did my 30YW plastics that way, though), I have drybrushed white all over the figure before painting in order that the colours don't get completely absorbed in the black. Even then if I want a colour to stand out, I find myself painting white first and then overcoating with the colour I want.<br />Cheers,<br />IonArchduke Piccolohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15533325665451889661noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-68248734155185968592012-05-20T23:54:14.878-07:002012-05-20T23:54:14.878-07:00Just to confuse things...I think another option ma...Just to confuse things...I think another option may be to undercoat a figure in a neutral tone, like a grey, thus avoiding the starkness of either black or white. A neutral tends to provide a better base to bring out colours that are placed on top- it's not contending with the colours. <br />I totally agree with "Colonel Scipio" about the idea of blocking in over your lighter undercoat and then adding a suitable wash. A dark blue/brown wash mix does pretty well with most things- shadows in reality aren't black after all.<br />Sorry, hope this doesn't sound like a mini treatise- hey, at least you've generated some interest.<br /><br />Cheers,<br />JacksargeJacksarge Paintinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09859137774361915594noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-18699588349875386962012-05-20T18:10:03.253-07:002012-05-20T18:10:03.253-07:00I almost always prime in black. More out of routi...I almost always prime in black. More out of routine or habit than any real reason. I have used a gray on my ACW Confederates and Navy blue on my ACW Yankees based on the recommendation on the Army Painter site. I was reasonably pleased. I am looking forward to your findings to see if you get any better results.Chris Stoesenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07285495844651490795noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-6051090799617148402012-05-20T14:56:00.888-07:002012-05-20T14:56:00.888-07:00Well Padre, I whole-heartedly agree with this post...Well Padre, I whole-heartedly agree with this post. In fact, I could pretty much say that I made that speech about 8 months ago when I 'converted' to white undercoating.<br /><br />Black is indeed gloriously unforgiving and labour-saving; however I now prefer white because it is much nicer to undercoat light colours on to. I do a very quick, flat base coat onto the white, usually various browns and greens. A heavy wash of ink then gives you that same darkened recessed area as on a black model, but rather than garish black lines it leaves you with a very natural blend between the heightened and recessed areas.<br /><br />It all depends on the model, I suppose. I do a lot of light browns and rag/cloth troops, so a light undercoat shows these colours up better. Certain periods in history (or sci-fi) warrant browns, especially armour etc.Colonel Scipiohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02632701529009379584noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-22809429442374365352012-05-20T13:16:25.849-07:002012-05-20T13:16:25.849-07:00I'll be watching this with interest as I too u...I'll be watching this with interest as I too undercoat in either flat black or grey. Look forward to the progress.Battlescalehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13530786317286215390noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6519665561624985779.post-2917988076561739642012-05-20T12:17:28.550-07:002012-05-20T12:17:28.550-07:00Heya there Padre! What you might want to try with ...Heya there Padre! What you might want to try with the white-primed figure is to start with a wash of burnt/raw umber (or other dark brown). If you then use quite thin colours on top, it will provide instant shading/highlighting. There is a good tutorial on this over on "The Basement Gaming Bunker".<br /><br />For any metalwork that you intend to dry-brush, go a thin black undercoat on just the metallic area.TamsinPhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11759947520907448060noreply@blogger.com